Melasma v’s Hyper-pigmentation

….The Low Down

Hyperpigmentation

Is common and usually harmless. Patches of skin become darker in colour due to an excess of the brown pigment ‘melanin’. Usually occurs from:-

• Sun damage over the years
• Post acne or other skin trauma (post inflammatory hyperpigmentation). An example is dark marks that appear after a pimple.

Note:- every time unprotected skin is exposed to UVA rays, a signal is sent to your pigment producing skin cells (melanocytes), to produce more melanin.

 

Melasma

Melasma is a very common skin complaint. The condition causes brown, discoloured patches on the face. Usually on the cheeks, forehead and upper lip. It’s also called chloasma OR the ‘mask of pregnancy’ (when it occurs in pregnant women). Melasma is much more common in women than men.

It is primarily related to a rise in women’s estrogenic hormones (such as progesterone), combined with sun exposure. These increased hormones trigger an overproduction of melanin in the skin. It is commonly triggered by birth control pills, hormonal changes in pregnancy or Hormone Replacement Therapy (HRT). Some women can however have a genetic predisposition. Most women with melasma have a history of sun exposure.

Melasma is most common among pregnant women, especially those of Latin and Asian descents. People with olive or darker skin, like Hispanic, Asian, and Middle Eastern individuals, have higher incidences of melasma

Frustratingly, Melasma does not always disappear straight away after giving birth. During pregnancy the best defense in preventing melasma is sun protection.

Treatment for Melasma / Hyperpigmentation

• Sun protection +++
• Exfoliation – Removes dead skin cells and accelerates skin cell turnover.
• Chemical Peels – eg glycolic
• Topical products containing Hydroquinone -helps lighten melasma by inhibiting tyrosinase, which is the enzyme responsible for the production of melanin. Hydroquinone is a naturally occurring substance that is present in blueberries, broccoli and meats.
• Topical Retinol (derived from Vitamin A) – which also great for aging Skin (wrinkles) and acne –not recommended whilst pregnant.
• Topical products containing Vitamin C – help with lightening and brightening.
• Professional Microdermabrasions
• laser pigmentation removal – using specialised medical-grade Lasers.
• Skin needling (Dermal rolling) – stimulates the production of collagen to create smoother, healthier skin. It reduces pigmentation, acne scarring, stretch marks, fine lines, enlarged pores, and scarring in general.
• See the Beauty Booster treatment
• REVERSE – line of products (from Rodan + Fields) – have been clinically tested to help visibly even skin tone, to reveal your most radiant and natural complexion. Please visit
  https://visherwood.myrandf.com/au and try the Solution Tool for a personalised recommendation.

Note- Unless you want to end up right back where you started, there’s no use trying to tackle pigmentation / melasma unless your prepared to keep your face out of the sun. Diligent sun protection is vital.

Other skincare ingredients to look for-

Alpha hydroxy acids, Kojic acid, antioxidants, salicylic acid, licorice, Vitamin E, green tea, mulberry.

Perimenopause & Skin

Permenopause ….who me??

Perimenopause usually starts in a woman’s late 30’s or early 40s. It can however start earlier or later. It is a transitional period caused by hormone fluctuations, particularly the levels of circulating estrogen and progesterone. This period can last up to 10 years.

Due to the shifts in hormone production, perimenopause can bring about many symptoms. Unlike full-fledged (or early menopause), you continue to ovulate and you are still producing estrogen. In fact, your hormones will often test in the “normal” range.

Some of the typical changes that occur during this period of estrogen and Progesterone fluctuations (and then decline) include:-

• Skin Changes – eg …dryer, thinning, adult acne, Rosacea, pigmentation, increased sensitivity, less elastic, itchy, lines and wrinkles & volume loss.
• Hot Flushes
• Trouble sleeping
• poorer concentration & also memory
• Mood swings
• Night sweats
• Increased PMS symptoms
• Fatigue
• Irregular periods – often short cycles + heavier bleeding.
• Weight changes
• Decrease in breast volume
• Change in sex drive
• If estrogen and / or progesterone dip to low (often  right before your period), a migraine headache can be triggered.

Specific SKIN Changes

Changes in our skin predominantly occur due to:-

• the multiple effects of hormonal fluctuations
• a shrinking skeleton
• decreased collagen production
• accumulated sun damage over the years

Adult Acne
Beginning in our 30’s, our levels of androgens increase. Testosterone stimulates sebaceous glands to secrete thicker sebum. This can cause clogged pores and an increase the likeliness of adult Acne.

…...see ‘Adult Acne’ Article for more information 

Facial Hair
Due to the unstable progesterone / estrogen levels + increased testosterone, some women may develop the odd sprout (or two or three) of facial hair, particularly in the chin area.

Sagging Skin and Wrinkles:
When progesterone levels drop (causing estrogen to become unstable), fat deposits tend to become redistributed. Fat pads in our face (which provide support and structure) diminish. Instead our adipose cells can become more concentrated around the abdomen, thighs and buttocks. Leading Dermatologist Dr Kathy Fields describes this as “fat redistribution from our face to our Fanny” 😳. The result of this loss of volume in our face, can be the formation of wrinkles and skin that appears less taut.

Continuous muscle contraction over the years, is another major contributor of facial wrinkles. Continuous muscle movement causes ‘dynamic wrinkles’ which only appear when the muscle is used, however, over time, if untreated, these wrinkles can become ‘static wrinkles’ which means they become permanently etched in our skin.

Thiner less elastic Skin:
Collagen is the supportive protein structure of our skin. It helps give skin it’s youthful plumpness. Skin stays more supple when there is enough progesterone …..which helps stimulate the production of collagen.

More Prone to Sun Damage:

The maintenance of Melanocytes (cells that manufacture the pigment Melanin) is under the control of estrogens. As we move closer to menopause, the number of melanocytes in the skin is reduced. With less melanocytes, we produce less of the protective melanin and skin appears lighter. Our skin is therefore more prone to sun damage.

Pigmentation:
As estrogen helps regulate the production of melanin (pigment), melanin synthesis can increase (when estrogen decreases). This can then lead to brown “age spots”. These can appear on the face, hands, neck, arms and chest of many women. This is particularly evident in areas of our skin that have been exposed to the sun over the years.

Dry and sometimes itchy skin

Estrogen stimulates the production of oils in our skin and also our skins ability to hold moisture. So when estrogen production diminishes  – dry and sometimes itchy skin becomes common.

What can help?

• A healthier diet – a healthy outside starts on the inside.
• Skip long hot showers which drys our Skin out.
• Supplements – such as Zinc (can do wonders for Skin), probiotics (as gut health is linked to Skin health), Omega 3’s which help with inflammation and dryness, Vitex, Sage, black cohosh etc. Speak to a naturopath.

• Sun protection +++
• Upgrade your Skincare Regime / Products – to suit your changing skin conditions.
• read previous Gut Article!!
• See previous Adult Acne Article!!
• Retinol (Vitamin A) based night serums – is anti-aging as it helps with collagen building and the rate at which skin cells generate. Amp up your results even further by using a dermal-roller prior.

• Visit the Solution Tool for further advice regarding which products will best suit your individual skin concerns.
  
• Going to bed earlier – as lack of sleep can add to hormonal imbalance, inflammatory skin conditions and adult acne.  Aim for 7-9 hours per night.
• Manage stress – as cortisol can trigger skin conditions such as psoriasis, rosacea and acne. Stress also robs us of progesterone.
• Exercise – helps with circulation (blood flow to your skin) and also stress management. See previous article.
• Quit smoking as it has been linked to early menopause.
• Progesterone Cream helps a lot of women with Perimenopausal symptoms in general. I highly recommend Ona’s Natural Progesterone Cream

To receive a discount on Ona’s natural progesterone cream use code : Vskin10

• Some people choose to get muscle relaxant injections – these work to prevent the formation of static wrinkles by stopping the signal between the nerve and muscle. The decreased movement in the muscle places less stress on the skin helping to give a fresh and youthful appearance. Anti-wrinkle injections are made from a purified protein that temporarily causes facial muscles to relax, instantly softening lines and wrinkles and reducing the severity of visible wrinkles.
• Hyaluronic dermal filler injections – once again, this is a personal choice made by some people. A dermal filler helps re-volumise and hydrate the face. Made from hyaluronic gel – a natural sugar already present in the human body. Hyaluronic can help restore fullness and volume in numerous facial areas. See here for more

• Vitex – has been traditionally used in Western herbal medicine for menstrual cycle irregularities and to help relieve symptoms associated with PMS. It can also provide symptomatic relief of hormone-induced acne.