Keratosis Pilaris – Those annoying tiny bumps that can be found on the back of arms.

Keratosis Pilaris is a common skin condition that causes patches of small rough raised bumps to appear on the skin. These tiny bumps (that look like pimples) are caused by a buildup of a protein called ‘Keratin’ (and also dead skin cells) at the opening of hair follicles. The condition sometimes gets referred to as ‘chicken skin’.

The bumps usually appear on the upper arms (most common), thighs, and buttocks. Although less common, they can also show up the face. They are often accompanied with associated redness.

Those with dry skin, are more likely to have Keratosis Pilaris (KP). It may also occur in association with other skin conditions, such as atopic dermatitis / eczema.  KP is usually worse in the winter months, when there’s less moisture in the air. It can often reduce slightly in the summer months.

Although Keratosis Pilaris can occur at any age, it is more common in children and teenagers. It usually reaches its peak prevalence in adolescence and for some, may disappear after the age of 30.

Keratosis Pilaris results from the buildup of keratin which forms a scaly plug that blocks the opening of the hair follicle. Usually many plugs form, causing patches of rough, bumpy skin.

Flare-ups can increase when there is a vitamin A deficiency.

Treatment?

There is generally no 100% cure for this harmless skin condition, however there are ways to greatly reduce the severity and to prevent it from getting worse.

What can help:-

• Use a gentle soap free body wash (soap can exacerbate dryness). Avoid lathering agents such as sodium lauryl sulphate which dehydrate the skin and strips beneficial lipid layers.
• Use a ‘gentle’ exfoliator once or twice per week to remove dead skin (without irritating the skin and adding to the problem). A great example is R+F ‘Microdermabrasion Paste’.
• Topical Retinoids (Vitamin A) help prevent hair follicles from becoming plugged. It also helps with skin cell turnover. However be careful as some Retinol creams are drying. See here for a recommendation.
• LED or Intense Pulsed Light (ILP).
• Creams containing salicylic acid, lactic acid, glycolic or urea which help support regular skin-cell proliferation. A good moisturiser will help prevent water loss from the skin (ie dehydration).
• Laser hair removal
• Eat anti-inflammatory food such as Omega-3’s found in Salmon, Walnuts, Sea Buckthorn etc
• Avoid inflammatory foods (non fermented dairy, gluten and sugar).
• See Gut Health
• Humidifiers – add moisture to the air, which can maintain the moisture in your skin and prevent itchy flare-ups.
• Soothe 2 sensitive skin treatment
• See Skin Supplements
• Avoid long hot showers which dry the skin out.

More on Vitamin A

Low levels of this vitamin have been associated with inflammation and acne.

Carrots are a source of Vitamin A.  HOWEVER the Beta Carotene (in carrots) needs to be converted into vitamin A in your intestines by gut flora. If you do not have the right gut flora it just won’t happen. See Gut Article. The better absorbed source of vitamin A is from cod liver oil and organ meat, particularly liver.

 

Note:- Women who are pregnant, or breast feeding, or may become pregnant should speak to their treating Doctor or Midwife Before taking Vitamin A supplements or using topical retinoids.

Victoria Isherwood

Registered Nurse

What Causes Wrinkles? …& what can we do to help

There are many factors that contribute to the lines and wrinkles that we developed over the years. Some contributors are out of are control, while others are from our own lifestyle circumstances and choices.

As we age our skin gets thinner, less elastic and drier. It also becomes less able to protect itself from damage.

When we are young, our skin springs back. HOWEVER -as we get older our skin looses collagen and it’s flexibility. Springing back becomes harder, resulting in permanent  (at rest) lines and wrinkles.

Types of Wrinkles

FINE SUPERFICAL LINES

These finer lines increase when our skin is dehydrated, sun damaged, or if your a smoker. They can also occur due to our sleep position.

DEEP WRINKLES

Every time our facial muscles move (when we speak or make facial expressions such as frowning) our skin moves too. This is called ‘dynamic movement’ – producing dynamic wrinkles. Overtime, dynamic wrinkles will turn into ‘static lines’. This means they are permanently etched in our skin.

In addition, the loss of volume (mainly fat cells) under our skin means there is less ‘support’. This is a natural part of aging and leads to increased wrinkling and sagging.

A number of avoidable lifestyle and environmental factors also contribute to the development of lines and wrinkles.

Smoking
Tobacco contains loads of toxins including;- carbon monoxide, nicotine, formaldehyde, mercury, lead and tar. These chemicals damage collagen and elastin within the skin. They also cause blood vessels to constrict, reducing blood flow, oxygen and nutrients to the skin. Skin is then less able to rejuvenate and repair itself. In addition to this, constantly squinting to avoid getting cigaret smoke in the eyes, and puckering the lips = lines around the eyes and mouth. See 5 of the worst things you can do for your skin.

The sun
Sun exposure is a major cause of wrinkles, especially for fair-skinned people.

Our sleep position
Sleep creases result from the way the head is positioned on the pillow and may become more visible after our skin starts losing its elasticity. Lying predominantly ‘face-down’ is typically the culprit. So trying to change sleep position can improve these sleep creases, or at least prevent them from becoming worse.

Dehydrated skin
As we age, it becomes harder for our skin to maintain its moisture levels. It also becomes increasingly common for our skins ‘lipid barrier’ to become impaired. This then leads to moisture loss / dehydration. The Skin also becomes more susceptible to bacteria and pollutants penetrating the impaired barrier.  Several factors can lead to dehydrated skin such as:-

What can help slow down the aging process

1) Protect your skin from the sun
– slip slop slap and include SPF in your day Cream

2) Don’t smoke
3) Choose skincare formulas rich in active anti-aging  ingredients eg retinol

3) Avoid dry dehydrated skin
Avoid long hot showers which draws moisture out of your skin. Avoid harsh cleansers. Change your skincare products to suit your aging skin, see multi-med therapy and  Active Hydration Serum

4) Smarten up your diet
Increase your fatty acid intake. Omega 3’s and Omega 6 help boost the skins barrier -which keeps moisture in and irritants out. Good sources include salmon, sardines, flaxseeds, walnuts, Sea buckthorn. Take Supplements if your diet is not up to scratch (Omega 3’s & Zinc is a good start). See Anti-Aging Superfoods.

5) Skin Treatments
– See Rolling back the years & LED
– Muscle relaxants (aka anti-wrinkle injections).

Anti-wrinkle injections work to prevent the formation of static wrinkles by stopping the signal between the nerve and muscle (temporarily causing the muscle to relax). The decreased movement in the muscle places less stress on the skin helping you maintain a fresh and youthful appearance. This treatment is most effective when used as a preventative measure. Anti-wrinkle injections are made from a purified protein.
Deep wrinkles can be treated with dermal fillers which replace the volume that has been lost under the skin.

Other
See 7 proven ways to nourish sun-damaged Skin.            See 5 of the WORST things you can do for your SKIN

Victoria Isherwood (Registered Nurse)

Retinol

 The answer is: YES

Retinol (Vitamin A) is clinically proven to make a huge impact on how skin ages. Dermatologists have been prescribing it for decades as the gold standard for promoting skin cell turnover and collagen production. It can help with:-

• Fine lines & wrinkles
• Scarring
• Uneven skin tone
• Controlling breakouts
• Keratosis pilaris
• Preventing clogged pores
• Sun damaged skin

SO …..when it comes to delivering long-term benefits and creating a more youthful appearance, it certainly gets an A+.

However, there’s a hitch: Prescription Vitamin A causes irritation and can be very drying, which makes daily use very difficult.

So how can you reap the benefits of Vitamin A without the irritation or the need for a Doctors script??

One way is to use products that contain a very low percentage of Retinol – this would be less irritating to the skin, but also less potent and effective (compared to prescription Vitamin A). The innovative way is to use Rodan + Fields Intensive Renewing Serum, which is the closest thing you will find to prescription strength WITHOUT drying your skin out.

This is because Intensive Renewing Serum contains a proprietary blend of powerful peptides and Retinal-MD (which is 20 times the strength of regular retinol). This will allow for visibly improved skin WITHOUT the side effects. The time-release technology keeps this anti-ageing serum working all night long to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and pores for firmer, younger-looking skin. SO …..you can revitalise the appearance of your skin while you sleep. It is designed to be tough on the signs of aging and not on your skin.

What about oral Vitamin A?

Vitamin A is a super important antioxidant / fat-soluble vitamin. It is crucial for maintaining overall health and keeping our SKIN healthy and clear. See here for the multiple skin benefits of oral vitamin A (including the best dietary sources).

Q&A:

Why should topical Retinol only be applied at NIGHT time?

Its important to keep your skin away from direct sunlight when using retinol. This is because retinol makes skin super-sensitive to UV rays and more likely to burn. In addition, the sunlight makes the product less effective. SO ALWAYS apply retinol serums in the evening before bed and remember to use sunscreen every morning.

Why does R&F Intensive renewing Serum (Retinol) come in small capsules?

The patented capsules eliminate the product’s exposure to oxygen. Oxygen decreases the efficacy of retinol dramatically – hence the creation of these little blue capsules! This intensive serum is as close as you can get to prescription Vitamin A without a visit to a doctor.

Pregnant woman and Vitamin A?

If pregnant please speak to your Doctor or Midwife before considering topical or oral Vitamin A. This is because high levels of vitamin A early in a pregnancy increases the risk for birth defects.

 

Click here to purchase or to find out which other products may suit your Skin type. Please message Victoria to find out how to get an instant discount and free shipping.

Want to amp up your Retinol Serum even further? Visit here

Victoria Isherwood (Registered Nurse)

 

Melasma v’s Hyper-pigmentation

….The Low Down

Hyperpigmentation

Is common and usually harmless. Patches of skin become darker in colour due to an excess of the brown pigment ‘melanin’. Usually occurs from:-

• Sun damage over the years
• Post acne or other skin trauma (post inflammatory hyperpigmentation). An example is dark marks that appear after a pimple.

Note:- every time unprotected skin is exposed to UVA rays, a signal is sent to your pigment producing skin cells (melanocytes), to produce more melanin.

 

Melasma

Melasma is a very common skin complaint. The condition causes brown, discoloured patches on the face. Usually on the cheeks, forehead and upper lip. It’s also called chloasma OR the ‘mask of pregnancy’ (when it occurs in pregnant women). Melasma is much more common in women than men.

It is primarily related to a rise in women’s estrogenic hormones (such as progesterone), combined with sun exposure. These increased hormones trigger an overproduction of melanin in the skin. It is commonly triggered by birth control pills, hormonal changes in pregnancy or Hormone Replacement Therapy (HRT). Some women can however have a genetic predisposition. Most women with melasma have a history of sun exposure.

Melasma is most common among pregnant women, especially those of Latin and Asian descents. People with olive or darker skin, like Hispanic, Asian, and Middle Eastern individuals, have higher incidences of melasma

Frustratingly, Melasma does not always disappear straight away after giving birth. During pregnancy the best defense in preventing melasma is sun protection.

Treatment for Melasma / Hyperpigmentation

• Sun protection +++
• Exfoliation – Removes dead skin cells and accelerates skin cell turnover.
• Chemical Peels – eg glycolic
• Topical products containing Hydroquinone -helps lighten melasma by inhibiting tyrosinase, which is the enzyme responsible for the production of melanin. Hydroquinone is a naturally occurring substance that is present in blueberries, broccoli and meats.
• Topical Retinol (derived from Vitamin A) – which also great for aging Skin (wrinkles) and acne –not recommended whilst pregnant.
• Topical products containing Vitamin C – help with lightening and brightening.
• Professional Microdermabrasions
• laser pigmentation removal – using specialised medical-grade Lasers.
• Skin needling (Dermal rolling) – stimulates the production of collagen to create smoother, healthier skin. It reduces pigmentation, acne scarring, stretch marks, fine lines, enlarged pores, and scarring in general.
• See the Beauty Booster treatment
• REVERSE – line of products (from Rodan + Fields) – have been clinically tested to help visibly even skin tone, to reveal your most radiant and natural complexion. Please visit
  https://visherwood.myrandf.com/au and try the Solution Tool for a personalised recommendation.

Note- Unless you want to end up right back where you started, there’s no use trying to tackle pigmentation / melasma unless your prepared to keep your face out of the sun. Diligent sun protection is vital.

Other skincare ingredients to look for-

Alpha hydroxy acids, Kojic acid, antioxidants, salicylic acid, licorice, Vitamin E, green tea, mulberry.