Acne 101

Acne is the most frequently diagnosed condition by dermatologist.

It affects nearly 85% of people at some point in their lives.  Whatever your age, the psychological impact can be significant. People with acne can suffer from embarrassment and low self-esteem. 

The Cause?

To put it simply, acne occurs when the oil glands (pores) in the skin become blocked with oil, dead skin cells and bacteria.

Our sebaceous glands are meant to produce sebum, which is an ‘oil’ designed to keep the skin lubricated and soft. However, when hormonal changes and other factors cause the gland to produce an excess of sebum (OR thicker than normal sebum) the problem arises. The pore becomes blocked and there is a higher chance that bacteria will multiply, leading to inflammation and acne.

Acne usually starts at puberty when increased levels of certain sex hormones (known as androgens) create an increase in the size and oil production of glands.

Hormonal acne can return again in our 30’s, as our levels of androgen hormones increase. Testosterone (an androgen hormone) stimulates sebaceous glands in women to secrete ‘thicker’ sebum. This can cause clogged pores and an increase the likeliness of ‘adult Acne’.

ACNE CYCLE

One of the most common misconceptions is that breakouts form overnight. However, the acne cycle begins days or even weeks before blemishes reach the skin’s surface. The acne cycle starts when hormones trigger sebum production. The sebum combines with dead skin cells, which leads to clogged pores. When pores are clogged, acne bacteria can quickly multiply, resulting in inflamed acne blemishes.

What can contribute?

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  • Hormones! Especially during the teenage years and then again during perimenopause.
  • A high G.I diet – studies have shown that a high-glycemic index (GI) diet (refined carbohydrates like those found in white bread and also sugar) can increase Acne. It’s suspected that raised insulin levels from high GI foods may trigger a release of hormones that inflame follicles and increase oil production. Also ….sugar feeds bacteria!
  • Stress hormones – such as cortisol can increase inflammation and stimulate oil glands.
  • Family history.
  • Poor gut health.
  • Too much unfermented dairy, gluten and sugar – which can all cause inflammation.
  • Using the wrong skincare products – commonly ones that are too harsh and can breakdown our protective lipid barrier
  • Vitamin and mineral deficiencies (Zinc & Vitamin A).
  • Polycystic Ovary Syndrome (PCOS) – This is due to increased levels of androgen (or ‘male’) hormones – testosterone and DHEA. Acne caused by PCOS tends to flare up in ‘hormonal sensitive’ areas around the lower part of the face.
  • Wearing heavy foundation. Some makeup can clog your pores. So while you might be tempted to cover your acne with lots of base and concealer, try to resist. Instead, consider a more breathable tinted moisturiser or foundation like Radiant Defense Perfecting Liquid which is non-acnegenic (so it won’t cause breakouts).
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Common Problem:- Why do I have dry skin yet still get breakouts??

It’s a common misconception that breakout prone skin ‘must be oily and therefore needs to be dried out’. When in fact dehydrated skin (common in adults more than teens) is often part of the problem, particularly with ADULT acne. A lot of the products on the market are in fact too drying and add to the problem!

So it’s important to understand the difference between dry and dehydrated skin. Skin that becomes dehydrated from over use of harsh products becomes more prone to bacteria getting in. This is due to a compromised skin barrier.

The key is to use products that will help prevent pores becoming clogged (with bacteria, dead skin cells and sebum), whilst keeping the skin hydrated at the same time. 

What can be done to help?

  • Topical Retinoids such as Retinol : which helps with the skins natural cellular renewal process. This can then help with acne and also wrinkles. Retinoids can be either prescription strength or OTC.
  • Suplementation with Zinc and Vitamin A.
  • Omega 3 supplementation – found in fish oil, Sea Buckthorn & flaxseeds clear acne by inhibiting two inflammatory chemicals that are responsible for acne breakouts, they are called PGE2 and LTB4. Omega-3’s do wonders for all inflammatory skin conditions.
  • Improving gut health.
  • Oral prescription medication such as short term antibiotics (and I stress ‘short term’ due to the disruption in gut health’) or in severe cases Accutane (a synthetic vitamin A derivative). Note Accutane can have irritating side effects and must not be taken when pregnant or breastfeeding.
  • Stress management
  • Gently Cleanse your face and body as soon as you can after exercise.
  • Dietary adjustments. Cut out unfermented dairy which worsens acne because it spikes the acne-causing hormone IGF-1 & can increase inflammation.A low GI diet (ditch the white carbs and sugar).
  • LED Light Therapy & Kleresca
  • R+F Unblemish & Spotless  – see below 

TEEN VS. ADULT ACNE

 

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R+F Unblemish

WHO IS IT FOR?

For adults who have acne and ageing concerns like dullness, uneven skin tone and texture, and loss of firmness.

WHAT IS IT?

UNBLEMISH addresses adult acne by drying and exfoliating, and reduces visible signs of ageing.

Clears current blemishes, unclog pores and reduce visible redness caused by acne, while preventing new breakouts from forming. 

The skin-clarifying four product pack is based on a philosophy of Multi-Med Therapy. This is all about using the right ingredients and active cosmetics, in the right formulations, in the right order. It’s a systematic approach and the results are guaranteed. Each regimen is designed to last 60 days and they’re backed by a 60-day money back guarantee – that’s how confident the company is that you’ll see results.

R+F Spotless

WHO IS IT FOR?


For teens and young adults, to help dry out and clear existing acne and prevent new blemishes from forming.

WHAT IS IT?


SPOTLESS is an easy-to-use 2-step Regimen that helps dry out and eliminate current breakouts and prevent future breakouts.

You can’t put a value on a boosted self esteem/ confidence. 

To purchase click here

 

Note:- If you sign up for PC Perks (Preferred Customer Perks) you will receive insider information, access to specials, enhanced customer service, 10% off all Rodan and Fields products, and FREE shipping. 

 

See here for more tips to control acne

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Victoria Isherwood (Registered Nurse / Dermatology)

Why Exfoliate?

One of the fastest and most effective ways to brighten up dull skin is to exfoliate — that is, to remove old skin cells, revealing newer skin underneath.

SO …. Out with the old; in with the new

Why Exfoliate?

Exfoliating helps with cell turnover, the natural shedding of dead cells that slows down as we age. If these cells accumulate, skin can feel rough and look dull. Exfoliation helps remove some of that debris, so skin is smoother and reflects light more evenly.

Some of the below extract taken from DermRF

There are two different ways to accomplish this instant New Year’s transformation: Mechanical exfoliators polish away dead cells using granules, such as sugar or salt crystals. Chemical exfoliators, which include glycolic acid, lactic acid and salicylic acid, dissolve the bond between old cells and the newer ones underneath.

So which exfoliation method is better? Rodan + Fields founders Dr. Katie Rodan and Dr. Kathy Fields recommend both. “We’re fans of both gentle chemical and mechanical exfoliation, with the key word being ‘gentle,” they explain in their book Write Your Skin a Prescription for Change. “In our experience, it takes the perfect combination of the two to dissolve the bonds between cells without irritating skin and to sweep away dead cells, leaving skin soft and smooth.”

The Doctors’ advice: “Don’t overdo it.” If you don’t exfoliate regularly and want to start, or if you’ve only used one kind of exfoliator and would like to add the chemical or mechanical product you’re missing, give your skin time to get used to it:

1. Start slow, and don’t overscrub. If your skin looks red or feels raw, take a break and give it a chance to recover.

2. Treat your face and body differently. The skin on elbows, knees and heels may respond well to daily exfoliation, while your face may prefer it every few days. And avoid the temptation to use a body scrub on your face; the exfoliating particles may be too aggressive. (If you’re looking for one scrub formulated for both face and body, try R+F Enhancements Micro-Dermabrasion Paste.).

3. For best results, moisturize after you exfoliate.

Why else do we love Enhancements Microdermabrasion Paste?? …because they’re eco-friendly (see here)

Looking for more great dermatological skin products? See here

Victoria Isherwood (Registered Nurse / Dermatology)

Get Your Weekend Glow On

Spray on Tan allows you to look good and feel great all year round without the risks of skin cancer and the harmful suns ageing effects.

Many people associate the glow of a tan with youthful health. Yet as we know, research shows that the bronzed skin we get from the sun leads to premature wrinkles and skin cancer. SO it’s no surprise that alternative tanning is a big business.

Spray on Tan

Not only is it a safer alternative to sun baking and solarium use; Spray tanning allows for an even colour, any time of the year – rain, hail or shine.

It can also help disguise stretch marks, cellulite and uneven skin tone.

Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) is the ingredient that creates the tanning effect. DHA is derived from NATURAL sugar cane. It has a long history of safe use.

TechnoTan Spray Tan is made up of naturally derived ingredients and is:-
• Cruelty Free 
• Vegan Friendly
• Alcohol and Paraben Free

The (2 hr) Bio Tan contains DHA + other exotic ingredients known for their anti-aging, moisturising and hydrating properties – such as Moroccan Argan Oil & coffee extract. It also contains the amazing Centella (famous for its skin repair and rejuvenation).

Tan Prep

For best results exfoliate the day before. This will help remove dead skin cells and to smooth and prepare the skin for an even tan.

On the day leave all deodorant / perfumes and moisturisers off the skin so the tan can absorb evenly.

Where to find the best spray tan on Sydney’s Northern Beaches?

Total Look Beauty Salon in Freshwater

For a great ‘at home’ tanning option see here

Victoria Isherwood (Registered Nurse)

Skin Masks

Skin masks are nothing new. Women have been using them since ancient times. So, exactly what are the benefits of masks?   …and what should the number one essential ingredient be?

  • Masks can unclog pores without stripping all your essential natural oils.
  • Masks can boost and nourish the skin.

Kaolin Clay

Kaolin clay is one of the oldest cosmetic ingredients around and has stood the test of time, still producing excellent results. It is the number one essential ingredient to look for in a mask.

Why Kaolin Clay?

  • Draws impurities from your pores without robbing your skin of essential moisture.
  • Eliminates toxins.
  • It’s Gentle.
  • Helps boost cell renewal.
  • Can increases circulation.
  • Is rich in phytonutrients that help nourish and soften your skin.

 

More on Phytonutrients…..

Phyto is the Greek word for plant, meaning that the word phytonutrient literally means a ‘nutrient from a plant’. The role of phytonutrients in plants is to protect the plant from disease, bacteria, fungi, drought, ultraviolet rays, and pollutants in the air. Studies are showing that many of these benefits can be applied to human health too. 

Koalin Clay Mask

You will notice how much softer your skin feels once you introduce the REDEFINE® Daily Cleansing Mask to your skincare routine. PM me for more details or visit the Solution Tool to find out if you should be incorporating  a cleansing mask into your daily routine.

Victoria Isherwood 😌 (Registered Nurse, Dermatology)

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