Acne 101

Acne is the most frequently diagnosed condition by dermatologist.

It affects nearly 85% of people at some point in their lives.  Whatever your age, the psychological impact can be significant. People with acne can suffer from embarrassment and low self-esteem. 

The Cause?

To put it simply, acne occurs when the oil glands (pores) in the skin become blocked with oil, dead skin cells and bacteria.

Our sebaceous glands are meant to produce sebum, which is an ‘oil’ designed to keep the skin lubricated and soft. However, when hormonal changes and other factors cause the gland to produce an excess of sebum (OR thicker than normal sebum) the problem arises. The pore becomes blocked and there is a higher chance that bacteria will multiply, leading to inflammation and acne.

Acne usually starts at puberty when increased levels of certain sex hormones (known as androgens) create an increase in the size and oil production of glands.

Hormonal acne can return again in our 30’s, as our levels of androgen hormones increase. Testosterone (an androgen hormone) stimulates sebaceous glands in women to secrete ‘thicker’ sebum. This can cause clogged pores and an increase the likeliness of ‘adult Acne’.

ACNE CYCLE

One of the most common misconceptions is that breakouts form overnight. However, the acne cycle begins days or even weeks before blemishes reach the skin’s surface. The acne cycle starts when hormones trigger sebum production. The sebum combines with dead skin cells, which leads to clogged pores. When pores are clogged, acne bacteria can quickly multiply, resulting in inflamed acne blemishes.

What can contribute?

• Hormones! Especially during the teenage years and then again during perimenopause.
• A high G.I diet – studies have shown that a high-glycemic index (GI) diet (refined carbohydrates like those found in white bread and also sugar) can increase Acne. It’s suspected that raised insulin levels from high GI foods may trigger a release of hormones that inflame follicles and increase oil production. Also ….sugar feeds bacteria!
• Stress hormones – such as cortisol can increase inflammation and stimulate oil glands.
• Family history.
• Poor gut health.
• Too much unfermented dairy, gluten and sugar – which can all cause inflammation.
• Using the wrong skincare products – commonly ones that are too harsh and can breakdown our protective lipid barrier
• Vitamin and mineral deficiencies (Zinc & Vitamin A).
• Polycystic Ovary Syndrome (PCOS) – This is due to increased levels of androgen (or ‘male’) hormones – testosterone and DHEA. Acne caused by PCOS tends to flare up in ‘hormonal sensitive’ areas around the lower part of the face.
• Wearing heavy foundation. Some makeup can clog your pores. So while you might be tempted to cover your acne with lots of base and concealer, try to resist. Instead, consider a more breathable tinted moisturiser or foundation like Radiant Defense Perfecting Liquid which is non-acnegenic (so it won’t cause breakouts).

Common Problem:- Why do I have dry skin yet still get breakouts??

It’s a common misconception that breakout prone skin ‘must be oily and therefore needs to be dried out’. When in fact dehydrated skin (common in adults more than teens) is often part of the problem, particularly with ADULT acne. A lot of the products on the market are in fact too drying and add to the problem!

So it’s important to understand the difference between dry and dehydrated skin. Skin that becomes dehydrated from over use of harsh products becomes more prone to bacteria getting in. This is due to a compromised skin barrier.

The key is to use products that will help prevent pores becoming clogged (with bacteria, dead skin cells and sebum), whilst keeping the skin hydrated at the same time. 

What can be done to help?

• Topical Retinoids such as Retinol : which helps with the skins natural cellular renewal process. This can then help with acne and also wrinkles. Retinoids can be either prescription strength or OTC.
• Suplementation with Zinc and Vitamin A.
• Omega 3 supplementation – found in fish oil, Sea Buckthorn & flaxseeds clear acne by inhibiting two inflammatory chemicals that are responsible for acne breakouts, they are called PGE2 and LTB4. Omega-3’s do wonders for all inflammatory skin conditions.
• Improving gut health.
• Oral prescription medication such as short term antibiotics (and I stress ‘short term’ due to the disruption in gut health’) or in severe cases Accutane (a synthetic vitamin A derivative). Note Accutane can have irritating side effects and must not be taken when pregnant or breastfeeding.
• Stress management
• Gently Cleanse your face and body as soon as you can after exercise.
• Dietary adjustments. Cut out unfermented dairy which worsens acne because it spikes the acne-causing hormone IGF-1 & can increase inflammation.A low GI diet (ditch the white carbs and sugar).
• LED Light Therapy & Kleresca
• R+F Unblemish & Spotless  – see below 

TEEN VS. ADULT ACNE

 

R+F Unblemish

WHO IS IT FOR?

For adults who have acne and ageing concerns like dullness, uneven skin tone and texture, and loss of firmness.

WHAT IS IT?

UNBLEMISH addresses adult acne by drying and exfoliating, and reduces visible signs of ageing.

Clears current blemishes, unclog pores and reduce visible redness caused by acne, while preventing new breakouts from forming. 

The skin-clarifying four product pack is based on a philosophy of Multi-Med Therapy. This is all about using the right ingredients and active cosmetics, in the right formulations, in the right order. It’s a systematic approach and the results are guaranteed. Each regimen is designed to last 60 days and they’re backed by a 60-day money back guarantee – that’s how confident the company is that you’ll see results.

R+F Spotless

WHO IS IT FOR?

For teens and young adults, to help dry out and clear existing acne and prevent new blemishes from forming.

WHAT IS IT?

SPOTLESS is an easy-to-use 2-step Regimen that helps dry out and eliminate current breakouts and prevent future breakouts.

You can’t put a value on a boosted self esteem/ confidence. 

To purchase click here

 

Note:- If you sign up for PC Perks (Preferred Customer Perks) you will receive insider information, access to specials, enhanced customer service, 10% off all Rodan and Fields products, and FREE shipping. 

 

See here for more tips to control acne

Victoria Isherwood (Registered Nurse / Dermatology)

Why Exfoliate?

One of the fastest and most effective ways to brighten up dull skin is to exfoliate — that is, to remove old skin cells, revealing newer skin underneath.

SO …. Out with the old; in with the new

Exfoliating helps with cell turnover, the natural shedding of dead cells that slows down as we age. If these cells accumulate, skin can feel rough and look dull. Exfoliation helps remove some of that debris, so skin is smoother and reflects light more evenly.

Some of the below extract taken from DermRF

There are two different ways to accomplish this instant New Year’s transformation: Mechanical exfoliators polish away dead cells using granules, such as sugar or salt crystals. Chemical exfoliators, which include glycolic acid, lactic acid and salicylic acid, dissolve the bond between old cells and the newer ones underneath.

So which exfoliation method is better? Rodan + Fields founders Dr. Katie Rodan and Dr. Kathy Fields recommend both. “We’re fans of both gentle chemical and mechanical exfoliation, with the key word being ‘gentle,” they explain in their book Write Your Skin a Prescription for Change. “In our experience, it takes the perfect combination of the two to dissolve the bonds between cells without irritating skin and to sweep away dead cells, leaving skin soft and smooth.”

The Doctors’ advice: “Don’t overdo it.” If you don’t exfoliate regularly and want to start, or if you’ve only used one kind of exfoliator and would like to add the chemical or mechanical product you’re missing, give your skin time to get used to it:

1. Start slow, and don’t overscrub. If your skin looks red or feels raw, take a break and give it a chance to recover.

2. Treat your face and body differently. The skin on elbows, knees and heels may respond well to daily exfoliation, while your face may prefer it every few days. And avoid the temptation to use a body scrub on your face; the exfoliating particles may be too aggressive. (If you’re looking for one scrub formulated for both face and body, try R+F Enhancements Micro-Dermabrasion Paste.).

3. For best results, moisturize after you exfoliate.

Why else do we love Enhancements Microdermabrasion Paste?? …because they’re eco-friendly (see here)

Looking for more great dermatological skin products? See here

Victoria Isherwood (Registered Nurse / Dermatology)

Protection – A skincare step NOT to miss!

In a world where people are spending thousands of dollars on skincare products and treatments (for anti-ageing and pigment correction), it’s ironic that the most simple, yet neglected step is sun protection.

We know that the sun is a major contributor to aging skin. It causes sun spots, wrinkles, dullness, hyper pigmentation, broken blood vessels, enlarged pores, thickened skin and more.

Pigmentation is usually the result of too much sun, creating freckles, age spots or larger discoloured skin patches. Research has shown that it is one of the biggest contributors to looking older – equal to wrinkles.

Fast facts

The vast majority of visible signs of ageing or hyperpigmentation are a result of the sun …and its damaging UV rays. In fact, up to 80% of premature ageing is thought to be attributed to the sun.

Australia experiences some of the highest levels of UV radiation in the world (due to our proximity to the equator and frequent blue skies). 

MUST-KNOW FACTS ABOUT SUMMER SUN PROTECTION

1. What’s the difference between UVA and UVB rays?

Ultraviolet A (UVA) rays emit the same amount of radiation from sunrise to sunset, 365 days a year. Ultraviolet B (UVB) rays are stronger in the summer, especially between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m.

2. Are UVA and UVB rays equally harmful to skin?

Yes, but they affect it in different ways. UVB rays are responsible for sunburn and skin redness. (Think “B” for “burning.”) They cause inflammation, surface dryness and excess dry skin buildup.

UVA rays are weaker than UVB rays but pass further into your skin. They stimulate excess pigment, resulting in dark marks, age spots and dullness. UVAs also break down collagen and elastin, causing lines, wrinkles and sagging. UVA rays can penetrate glass, which means they harm your skin even while indoors.

3. What does SPF stand for, and how does it work?

SPF is short for “Sun Protection Factor.” The higher the SPF, the more protection. But exactly how long a sunscreen protects you depends on your skin color and its tolerance to UVB rays.

To get a sense of how long you can stay in the sun, multiply your sunscreen’s SPF number by the amount of time it takes your skin to burn in the sun.

If your skin turns red in 10 minutes without sun protection, your math would look like this:

• SPF 15 x 10 minutes = 150 minutes (2 ½ hours) without getting burned

• SPF 30 x 10 minutes = 300 minutes (5 hours) without getting burned

…but there’s a little more to it than this. First, no sunscreen can block out 100% of the sun’s rays. Since you can’t rely on sunscreen for complete protection, be sure to cover up your body and wear a big hat and sunglasses.

4. What’s the difference between physical sunscreen and chemical sunscreen?

The two types of sunscreens protect skin in different ways and have different properties. Physical sunscreens, such as zinc oxide, reflect and scatter light and are gentle on skin — which is why Rodan + Fields UNBLEMISH and SOOTHE sunscreens are physical sunscreens. Chemical screens, such as avobenzone, absorb light and blend well with more ingredients. Rodan + Fields REVERSE, REDEFINE and ESSENTIALS sunscreens are chemical sunscreens.

Whether physical or chemical, all broad-spectrum sunscreens should be formulated to protect against damage from both UVA and UVB rays.

5. How much sunscreen do I need?

More than you probably think! Apply one tablespoon of sunscreen to your face and one ounce — the amount that would fill a shot glass — to your body for adequate sun protection.

6. How frequently should I reapply sunscreen?

One application of sunscreen won’t protect your skin for the entire day. You should reapply sunscreen every two hours — more frequently if you’ve been in the water. This is true even if you’re using a sunscreen with a high SPF.

See here for another great product which contains SPF

Victoria Isherwood (Registered Nurse / Skincare)

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The Link Between Chronic Inflammation & Our Skin

Inflammation is part of the body’s immune response. It is our body’s attempt at self-protection to remove harmful stimuli (such as bacteria) and begin the healing process. Inflammation can be beneficial in the short-term. For instance -let’s say we get a cut or a graze to our skin. Immediately, our immune cells step in to protect against pathogens and heal the wound. This is called acute inflammation. Your white blood cells step in to do their job and then go away.

However there’s another type of inflammation that sticks around way longer than it’s meant to. This is called Chronic inflammation and can cause harm to our bodies in many ways.

Chronic inflammation can be the root cause of common skin disorders such as acne, eczema, psoriasis & rosacea. It can also contribute to premature aging, some mood disorders, hormonal imbalances, certain autoimmune disorders and disease. 

Our skin is our body’s largest organ, and when inflammation is out of control, it can manifest in multiple skin problems.

Numerous things may fuel chronic inflammation. This includes inflammatory foods we eat, certain medications, environmental factors and stress.  This then leads to systemic inflammation affecting the entire body. See gut blog for more information.

Triggers of inflammation

• Stress
• Viruses, bacteria, yeasts or parasites
• Food allergies
• Long term use of certain medications
• Toxins such as mercury and pesticides
• Lack of exercise
• Mold
• Lack of sleep
• Environment allergies
• Inflammatory foods

What FOODS cause inflammation and should be Limited?

• Refined Sugar
• Too much Omega-6 fatty acids – as mentioned above.
• High-fructose corn syrup – not only increases inflammation but can also inhibit the anti-inflammatory effect of omega-3 fatty acids.
• Processed meat
• Gluten
• Too much caffeine
• Dairy (ie non-fermented dairy)
• Processed foods, especially those that are high in high-fructose-corn-syrup, sugar and sodium.
• Excessive alcohol consumption
• See more on inflammation/ gut health here

Omega-3 Vs Omega-6 Fatty Acids

Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids are essential fatty acids that the body needs for normal growth and development. However these two fatty acids compete for absorption. Our bodies need a healthy balance of omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids. It is Omega-3’s that help reduce inflammation in our bodies. So …an excess consumption of omega-6s (and not enough Omega-3) can trigger inflammation.

Omega-6 fats are derived from linoleic acid and are found in certain oils like peanut, corn, sesame, sunflower, soy, and safflower. These oils need to be limited in our diets. 

A recent study showed a significant reduction in psoriasis flare ups (ie reduced area of rash, and improved thickness and redness of psoriasis) – after supplementing with a high quality omega-3 fish oil supplement (containing EPA & DHA). The study authors suggested doses of 0.45 to 13.5 grams of EPA and up to 9 grams of DHA daily.

Foods which help reduce inflammation 

• Foods rich in omega-3 fatty acids – such as extra virgin olive oil, oily wild caught fish such as salmon, sardines, t rout, anchovies and mackerel. Flaxseeds, sea buckthorn walnuts. A good quality Omega-3 supplement can also help ease inflammatory skin issues. 
• Green leafy vegetables, such as spinach and kale. Also other colourful fruit and vegetables (the deeper or brighter the colour the richer it is in nutrients and antioxidants).
• Fruit esp berries – berries (such as blueberries, strawberries, raspberries etc) contain antioxidants called anthocyanins which have anti-inflammatory properties.
• Note:- Grass fed meat is better than grain fed meat.
• Foods high in antioxidants help reduce damage caused by inflammation.
• Probiotic rich foods (or supplements).
• Turmeric root & ginger
• See more anti inflammatory super foods here.

Victoria Isherwood (Registered Nurse)

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Is It Possible To Have Glowing Skin after 50?

Changes in our SKIN after 50 predominantly occur due to

• The multiple effects of hormonal fluctuations
• A shrinking skeleton
• Decreased collagen production
• Accumulated sun damage over the years
• Repetitive facial expressions over the years (causing lines and wrinkles to become etched in).

Some of the typical skin changes that occur during this period of estrogen decline:-

• Dryer (and sometimes itchy) skin
• Thinning skin
• Decreased elasticity
• Sensitivity
• An increase in rosacea and other inflammatory skin conditions
• Increased  pigmentation (äge spots”)
• Lines and wrinkles & volume loss.

Fortunately, there’s lots we can do for healthy skin after 50 

Cleanse GENTLY

Cleansing is an important skin care step at every age. However, as we get older our skin becomes more delicate and drier. So we need to use a cleanser that is right for our skin. Choose either creamy formulas or cleansing masks -rather than harsh foam or gel cleansers (which can strip moisture away and compromise our delicate lipid barrier).

Hydrate, Hydrate, Hydrate

Oestrogen stimulates the production of oils in our skin and also our skins ability to hold moisture. So when oestrogen production diminishes  – dry and sometimes itchy skin becomes a common problem.

Although ‘Dry’ and ‘dehydrated’ seem like two words which describe the same thing;- there is a big difference when it comes to our skin! To put it simply, dehydrated skin lacks water and dry skin lacks oil / lipids.

In relation to skin care, hydration means increasing the amount of water in our skin cells, which results in a healthy, smooth and plump complexion. When our skin doesn’t have enough moisture, it gets scaly, rough and dull.

Moisture and hydration skincare products do different things. A moisturiser tends not to hydrate the skin. Instead it forms a barrier to prevent moisture from escaping. A hydration product on the other hand – actually brings water to the skin. So, it is important that we give our skin the right combination of hydration and moisture.

If you are not using a serum now YOU SHOULD. Most contain effective anti-aging ingredients not typically found in other products such as cleansers, toners, moisturizers,or facial oils.

You Still Need SPF

The maintenance of Melanocytes (cells that manufacture the pigment Melanin) is under the control of estrogens. During menopause, the number of melanocytes in the skin is therefor reduced (due to a decrease in estrogen). Less melanocytes, means we produce less of the protective melanin. Our skin therefore becomes more prone to sun damage.

Although a lot of the damage was caused by the amount of sun we got in our 20s, 30s, and 40’s, it’s still vital to protect our skin from further damage. So include a broad-spectrum SPF as part of your daily skincare regime.

Hit the Brown Spots

Pigmentation äge spots” on the face, hands, and chest can look more obvious around menopause. Help prevent them by using sunscreen every day. Already got spots? See here

Clean up your DIET and consider your GUT

Eating foods rich with antioxidants can help your skin from the inside out. See more here regarding skin boosting super foods to increase in your diet and here for foods to avoid. Also consider:- Omega-3’s

Consider your Mental Health 

Our mind and skin are very much connected. This is now being referred to as Psychodermatogy.

Constant stress increases the production of our stress hormone ‘cortisol’. This then triggers inflammation and can also throw off other hormones in our body.  Increased inflammation is not good news for inflammatory skin disorders.

Stress can also disrupt the balance between the good and bad bacteria in our gut. As we know, our gut health can also cause havoc with our skin. See Gut Article

Take time during your day to reduce stress levels. Try yoga, meditation, pilates, going for a walk, reading OR any other stress-reduction techniques – to help reduce cortisol levels.

Get Moving

Exercise helps keep our skin healthy and vibrant. The multiple benefits of exercise include:-

1. Increased circulation, including blood flow. This
   results in oxygen and nutrients being delivered to
   our skin.
2. An increase in blood flow, also helps waste products 
   to be carried away from our skin.
3. Endorphins (our feel good hormones) are produced. This subsequently helps reduce stress levels and cortisol. This can result in an improvement of acne, eczema and other skin conditions.

Upgrade your Skincare regime

• Upgrade your Skincare Regime / Products – to suit your changing skin conditions. Visit the Solution Tool for further advice regarding which skincare products will best suit your individual skin concerns.

Bulk Up on Beauty Sleep

Getting enough sleep helps your skin look younger. Lack of sleep can cause hormonal imbalances (and also decrease our metabolisms). It can also increase  flare-ups of inflammatory skin conditions and adult acne. getting adequate sleep helps prevent dark circles under our eyes, and it also gives the rest of our body a chance to recharge.  Aim for 7-9 hours per night.

And a Retinol serum at night

Retinol (Vitamin A) is clinically proven to make a huge impact on how skin ages. Dermatologists have been prescribing it for decades as the gold standard for promoting skin cell turnover and collagen production. It helps to correct lines, wrinkles, and scarring and can also help with breakouts.

Minimize Wrinkled Skin

Wrinkles are formed from a combination of too much sun over the years, hormonal change, repeated facial expressions, a loss of collagen, and thinning skin. Wrinkles are more obvious when our skin is dry. SO use a hydrating serum and a moisterising cream every day.

• Some people choose to get muscle relaxant injections – these work to prevent the formation of static wrinkles by stopping the signal between the nerve and muscle. The decreased movement in the muscle places less stress on the skin helping to give a fresh and youthful appearance. Anti-wrinkle injections are made from a purified protein that temporarily causes facial muscles to relax, instantly softening lines and wrinkles and reducing the severity of visible wrinkles. Please contact Victoria for more information on Laser Clinics Australia bookings. Or visit the  LCA website
• Hyaluronic dermal filler injections – once again, this is a personal choice made by some people. A dermal filler helps re-volumise and hydrate the face. Made from hyaluronic gel – a natural sugar already present in the human body. Hyaluronic can help restore fullness and volume in numerous facial areas. Visit here for more details.

Always use an Eye Cream.

The skin around the eye is thinner and more fragile. It requires a different efficacy and mix of ingredients than the skin on the rest of your face does.

Tip – Try keeping your eye cream in the fridge, as the cold cream will help constrict blood vessels to reduce puffy under eye bags in the mornings.

Make sure your using skin products that suite YOUR skin type

It’s very important to choose cleansers, moisturizers, and a skin care routine formulated for your skin type. If you don’t know yours, find out at What’s Your Skin Type.

Skin Boosting Supplements

• Certain supplements can do wonders for our skin especially if its a supplement your lacking in. For example Zinc, probiotics (see gut health), and Omega 3’s (which help with inflammation and dryness). See here for more

 

Victoria Isherwood (Registered Nurse)

 

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Victoria has been nursing for 20 years. She has a double degree in Nursing and Health Science, as well as a Post Graduate in Midwifery. In addition, she has also undertaken comprehensive and extensive training in dermatology and the cosmetic field. Having an eye for detail, Victoria now works exclusively in skincare aesthetics as a Cosmetic Nurse.

Working in the Cosmetic/ Dermatology field, Victoria has seen a lot of fads come and go. This Blog aims to help you eliminate the confusion of an over abundance of Skin advice and products on the market today.  The objective  is to help you filter through the gimmicky products and advice, to get to the good material. All products shown are clinical grade, cruelty free, and have undertaken rigorous testing.

Blog topics will help educate and shed light on various skin (& related health) concerns. It is important to take a wholistic approach when it comes to skin health. Blog topics will cover both conventional and functional medicine. This includes various treatment options, clinical grade products, natural products, hormones, gut health, cosmetic injectables, natural remedies and more.

Please read on to find out more

For in clinic skin treatments / injectables with Victoria at Laser Clinics Australia please visit here OR contact:-

Warriewood (Tuesdays) Ph: 02 83192078

Brookvale (Thursdays) Ph: 80148911

For dermatological clinically proven skincare products visit here

😊 Victoria Isherwood

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Dry vs Dehydrated SKIN: Is there a difference? And what can we do to help?

DRY vs DEHYDRATED skin

‘Dry’ and ‘dehydrated’ seem like two words which describe the same thing. However there is a big difference between dry and dehydrated skin! To put it simply, dehydrated skin lacks water and dry skin lacks oil / lipids.

Dehydrated skin is caused by not having enough water content in your skin, however oil production may still be present. Meaning – you don’t need to have dry skin to have dehydrated skin!

Dehydrated skin is common among people who have acne-prone and oily skin. Especially if they use strong skincare products that strip water away from the skin.

DEHYDRATED SKIN

• Shows more fine superficial lines
• Looks dull
• Is thinner and more fragile
• Prevents skincare products from working as well as they could.
• Can be sensitive
• Feels rough
• Shows accelerated signs of ageing
• Has decreased elasticity
• Has a compromised lipid barrier, which means more moisture is lost and the skin is vulnerable to bacteria and irritants getting in. For some this can result in redness and irritation.

DRY SKIN

• Feels rough
• Appears dry and sometime flaky
• also has decreased elasticity
• Can have a pileup of dead skin cells which causes a loss of smoothness.
• Can be itchy
• The older we get, the less natural oils we produce.

 

How did my skin get so dehydrated?

Everyday life and the environment can negatively impact our skin. Sun, wind, harsh air conditioning, heaters and some harsh cleansers can leave the epidermis parched and fragile. In Winter, indoor heating removes humidity from the air which can cause are skin to become more dehydrated. Taking long hot showers in winter further exacerbates dry dehydrated skin.

Hydration

When you think of hydration it’s only natural to think of water. To hydrate something means to increase its water content. In relation to skin care, hydration means increasing the amount of water in your skin cells, which results in a healthy, smooth and plump complexion. When our skin doesn’t have enough moisture, it gets scaly, rough and dull—and can in fact look like the skin of someone far older. That means whether you’re in your 20’s OR 50’s or somewhere in between, you need to start making sure your skin is properly hydrated now!

When our skin starts to look and feel dehydrated our first instinct is to slather on heavy moisturiser . The tightness and dullness may go away for a few days or so, but then we find ourselves back at square one trying to solve the problem. Drinking plenty of water will help, HOWEVER since our skin is the last organ to absorb hydration, using topical ingredients that promote hydration are necessary as well.

Moisture and hydration skincare products may seem synonymous, however these products do different things. A moisturiser tends not to hydrate the skin. Instead it forms a barrier to prevent moisture from escaping. A hydration product on the other hand – actually brings water to the skin. So, if you want to show off a healthy glow at any age, make sure you give your skin the right combination of hydration and moisture.

What order should Hydration and Moisturising products be applied?

Since the purpose of hydrating is to bind water to our skin and moisturising is to prevent the water from leaving our skin, it’s important that hydration comes before moisturising. This is why serums are to be applied first (think thin to thick) . Then once you get that layer of hydration on, you need to seal it all in with a moisturiser. This combination creates the perfect balance.

 For those with particularly oily skin, you may not need to moisturise as often. So applying a hydrating product may sometimes be enough. However this only applies if your skin naturally produces enough oil to prevent water from leaving the skin.

A great way to keep your skin hydrated (and therefore looking younger) is with R+F Active Hydration Serum™. This hydrating, oil-free serum contains Hyaluronic Acid and 30% Glycerin to help defend against dehydrated skin. Why do we love this unique Hydration Serum? because it…..

• Is clinically tested for all skin types – even oily, acne-prone or sensitive skin.
• Immediately hydrates skin to its optimal level, maintains it throughout the day and continues to build over time with ongoing use.
• Incorporates 3D3P Molecular Matrix, which acts as your skin’s personal water reservoir, drawing and locking in moisture from the air as your skin needs it.
• Is OIL free
• Serves a totally different purpose than a moisturiser.
• Is clinically tested to boost Regimen performance for all skin types.

The Science

The secret is the patent-pending 3D3P Molecular Matrix. The key ingredients are cross-linked Hyaluronic Acid and Glycerin. These are powerful humectants (aka water magnets) and are the two best water binders on the market. Did you know Hyaluronic Acid can hold 1000 times its own weight in water! Together, these ingredients attract and lock in moisture which subsequently helps nourish and replenish dry skin. Active Hydration Serum is not like any other product on the market. It self adjusts to your skins needs and your environment to address hydration in a different way. Most moisterisers don’t add hydration to the skin. They just form a barrier that prevents moisture from escaping.

Incorporating Active Hydration Serum into your daily Regime?

Active Hydration Serum can be applied before moisteriser and makeup. Because hydrated skin responds more easily to products layered on top, using Active Hydration Serum will also help to boost the visible results of other products.

Click here to purchase. Please contact Victoria to find out how to receive a 10% discount + free shipping.

Other relevant and helpful information-

Skin Masks

Look after your skins protective lipid barrier 

Skin Supplements

What NOT to do

How to Nourish Sun Damaged Skin

Victoria Isherwood

(Registered Nurse / dermatology / Skincare)

Eczema

Exactly What Is Eczema?

Eczema (sometimes referred to as atopic dermatitis) is a common condition where patches of skin become inflamed, itchy, red, cracked, and rough. The severity can vary greatly.

Eczema is most common in children and will typically clear as they age. However, they will often continue to have sensitive skin AND eczema will often return again in later life.

As I’ve explained in previous articles, our skin should act as a protective barrier against external irritants and bacteria. However when the skin is affected by eczema (and the lipid barrier is compromised), external irritants and bacteria are able to penetrate into the skin and moisture is lost . This causes further irritation, inflammation and dryness, which can lead to cracks in the skin, itching, infection etc.

While the exact cause of eczema is not fully understood, we do know  that;-

Skin hypersensitivity and reactions are often the by-product of hypervigilant immune system skin cells (called Langerhans cells), thrown into overdrive by triggers such as environmental allergens, stress etc.

To put it simply, eczema is caused by inflammation of the skin.

TRIGGERS, which activate and exacerbate episodes of eczema include diet, hormonal, environmental, stress and lifestyle-related factors.

Common triggers include soap, perfume, detergents, stress and change in temperature or weather. Food allergies can also play a part, especially in young children. Individuals will react differently to different triggers.

Other Triggers

• Hormones: Women can experience increased eczema symptoms at times when their hormone levels are changing, for example during pregnancy and at certain points in the menstrual cycle.
• Stress: This is not a direct cause of eczema but can make symptoms worse. See mind-skin connection.

Mild cases of eczema can leave the skin irritated, dry, red, scaly and itchy, while the more severe cases can lead to weeping, bleeding and crusting of the skin.

Managing Eczema

For many people, the severity of flare-ups will lessen with maturity, and ‘some’ may completely outgrow it. However, as eczema can come and go throughout life, learning how to manage flare-ups and identifying triggers is the best course of action.

There are a number of things people with eczema can do to support skin health and alleviate symptoms, such as:

Avoiding external irritants and allergens

Common environmental irritants include:

• Harsh soaps, bubble baths, some shampoos
• Wool, nylon
• Grass and sometimes sand

Common allergens (substances that can aggravate eczema if you are allergic to them) include:

• pollens;
• house dust mites;
• animal dander (small scales from the skin and hair of animals).
• certain foods.

Note:  an allergy assessment by an allergist will properly identify the allergic triggers.

• As Overheating can make eczema worse,  therefor try not to have heating too high in winter, bathe in lukewarm water (not too hot), don’t use an electric blanket.
• Prevent your skin becoming dehydrated and dry (which are two different conditions).
• Wear cotton and soft fabrics, and avoid rough, scratchy fibers and tight-fitting clothing.
• Use a mild soap when washing and a non-soap cleanser (such as Soothe gentle cream wash).
• Gently pat (with a towel) or air dry rather than rubbing the skin dry after bathing.
• Avoiding rapid changes of temperature and activities (like heated yoga) that make you sweat excessively.
• learn and avoiding individual eczema triggers
• Use a humidifier in dry or cold weather.
• keep childrens fingernails short to prevent breaking the skin when itching.
• Use an emollient daily to keep the skin moisturised.
• Wear cool breathable natural fibres.
• Eczema can get worse when stressed or anxious, so consider relaxation techniques such as meditation. See Mind-Skin-Axis.
• Check ingredients of skincare products before use.
• See common skin conditions

Nutrition and skin health

As certain food allergy’s intolerance’s can aggravating eczema, keeping a food diary can help pin point the particular foods that may be causing flare-ups. Speaking to a nutritional professional will point you in the right direction here.

It is important to remember that eczema is an inflammatory skin disorder. Therefore avoiding inflammatory foods can greatly help manage eczema. See gut-skin connection article.

When it comes to healthy eating, certain Vitamins and Nutrients can have a very positive effect on skin health. Some of the key nutrients believed to be essential in maintaining good skin health include; essential fatty acids (EFAs such as salmon, wallnuts or Sea Buckthorn), Zinc, Probiotics, Selenium, Vitamin E (avocados), Vitamin D, Beta-carotene etc. See here for more info.

Everyone is individual and what your body needs, may be different to someone else’s. A nutrition professional can help you understand what foods may be causing your skin issues and guide you in the right direction.

Moisterisers / Emollients

Moisturising is one of the easiest (and most important) measures in protecting the skin barrier. It can also prevent itching and scratching, as well as reduce eczema flare-ups.

As eczema is a chronic condition, it is important to incorporate regular moisturising into your daily skincare routine.  – normally a cream or ointment that softens and soothes the skin. For very dry skin, this should be done twice per day.

• Avoid moisturisers that contain perfumes which can irritate the skin.
• Moisturisers should also be applied within 3 minutes of bathing to ‘lock in the moisture’

Rodan + Fields offers dermatologically tested and proven products that are gentle and safe enough to use on childrens delicate skin. Steps 2 & 3 from the Soothe Regimen are two of the products that I recommend. If you are looking for relief and just don’t know where to turn, please feel free to contact me to see if these products are right for you and your family.

Note: emollient is just another word for a moisturiser

Steroid creams and ointments?

Creams or ointments containing corticosteroid are commonly used for flare-ups of eczema. Steroid preparations can relieve itching by reducing inflammation. However it is important to discuss this with a dermatologist as using high-strength steroid ointments or creams over long periods can be associated with  side effects. Short term use intermitted (when required) is a better option.

Anti-itch preparations for eczema

Cold compresses, oatmeal baths, coal tar and pine tar preparations may help to relieve itchy skin.

Antihistamines are occasionally recommended to relieve itching that is disrupting sleep. Their benefit is partially due to the sedating effect – they do not completely suppress the itch. Sedating antihistamines (such as Phenergan) are therefore best taken at night.

The mind-skin connection

Some skin conditions, including eczema, have a psychological component. This is a dynamic is referred to as psychodermatology.  See more information here…

Also see

Light Therapy benefits

Victoria Isherwood (Registered Nurse)

Typical Skin Changes In Our 40’s + what we can do to help….

Life happens and somehow the years fly by. Then before we know it we are in our fourth decade.

The changes….

Around our late 30’s / early 40s women typically go through a transitional period (which can last several years) caused by hormonal fluctuations. This period is often referred to as ‘perimenopause’.

Due to the shifts in hormone production (mainly progesterone and estrogen), perimenopause can bring about many changes. Unlike full-fledged (or early menopause), you DO continue to ovulate and you ARE still producing estrogen. In fact, your hormones will often test in the “normal” range.

Some of the typical changes that occur during this period of estrogen and progesterone fluctuations (and then decline) include:-

• Skin Changes – eg …dryer, thinning, adult acne, rosacea, pigmentation, increased sensitivity, less elastic, itchy, lines and wrinkles & volume loss.
• Hot Flushes
• Trouble sleeping
• Poorer concentration & also memory
• Anxiety 
• Mood swings
• Night sweats
• Increased PMS symptoms
• Fatigue
• Irregular periods – often short cycles + heavier bleeding.
• Weight changes
• Decrease in breast volume
• Change in sex drive
• Etc

Specific SKIN Changes

Changes in our skin predominantly occur due to:-

• the multiple effects of hormonal fluctuations
• a shrinking skeleton
• decreased collagen production
• accumulated sun damage over the years
• Repetitive facial expressions over the years (causing lines and wrinkles to become etched in). See more info here.

Adult Acne:

Beginning in our 30’s, our levels of androgens increase. Testosterone stimulates sebaceous glands to secrete thicker sebum. This can cause clogged pores and an increase the likeliness of adult Acne.

……see ‘Adult Acne’ Article for more information 

Facial Hair:

Due to the unstable progesterone / estrogen levels + increased testosterone, some women may develop the odd sprout (or two or three) of facial hair, particularly in the chin area.

Sagging Skin and Wrinkles:

When progesterone levels drop (causing estrogen to become unstable), fat deposits tend to become redistributed. Fat pads in our face (which provide support and structure) diminish. Instead our adipose cells can become more concentrated around the abdomen, thighs and buttocks. Leading Dermatologist Dr Kathy Fields describes this as “fat redistribution from our face to our Fanny” 😳. The result of this loss of volume in our face, can be the formation of wrinkles and skin that appears less taut.

Continuous muscle contraction over the years, is another major contributor of facial wrinkles. Continuous muscle movement causes ‘dynamic wrinkles’ which only appear when the muscle is used, however, over time, if untreated, these wrinkles can become ‘static wrinkles’ which means they become permanently etched in our skin.

Thiner less elastic Skin:

Collagen is the supportive protein structure of our skin. It helps give skin it’s youthful plumpness. Skin stays more supple when there is enough progesterone …..which helps stimulate the production of collagen.

Sun Damage:

The maintenance of Melanocytes (cells that manufacture the pigment Melanin) is under the control of estrogens. As we move closer to menopause, the number of melanocytes in the skin is reduced. With less melanocytes, we produce less of the protective melanin and skin appears lighter. Our skin is therefore more prone to sun damage.

Pigmentation:

As estrogen helps regulate the production of melanin (pigment), melanin synthesis can increase (when estrogen decreases). This can then lead to brown “age spots”. These can appear on the face, hands, neck, arms and chest of many women. This is particularly evident in areas of our skin that have been exposed to the sun over the years. See here for more info on pigmentation and melasma.

Dry and sometimes itchy skin

Estrogen stimulates the production of oils in our skin and also our skins ability to hold moisture. So when estrogen production diminishes  – dry and sometimes itchy skin becomes common.

However it’s not all bad news, there it’s lots we can do which helps dramatically. If you haven’t yet whipped your anti-aging routine into shape, now’s the time—because it only gets harder from here.

What can help?

• A healthier diet – a healthy outside starts on the inside.
• Skip long hot showers which drys our Skin out.
• Supplements – such as Zinc (can do wonders for Skin), probiotics (as gut health is linked to Skin health), Omega 3’s which help with inflammation and dryness, Vitex, Sage, black cohosh etc. Speak to a naturopath.
• Sun protection +++
• read previous Gut Article!!
• See previous Adult Acne Article!!
• Retinol (Vitamin A) based night serums – is anti-aging as it helps with collagen building and the rate at which skin cells generate. Amp up your results even further by using a dermal-roller prior.
• Going to bed earlier – as lack of sleep can add to hormonal imbalance, inflammatory skin conditions and adult acne.  Aim for 7-9 hours per night.
• Manage stress – as cortisol can trigger skin conditions such as psoriasis, rosacea and acne. Stress also robs us of progesterone.
• Exercise – helps with circulation (blood flow to your skin) and also stress management. See previous article.
• Quit smoking as it has been linked to early menopause.
• Some people choose to get mustcle relaxant injections – these work to prevent the formation of static wrinkles by stopping the signal between the nerve and muscle. The decreased movement in the muscle places less stress on the skin helping to give a fresh and youthful appearance. Anti-wrinkle injections are made from a purified protein that temporarily causes facial muscles to relax, instantly softening lines and wrinkles and reducing the severity of visible wrinkles. Please contact Victoria for more information on Laser Clinics Australia bookings. Or visit the  LCA website
• Hyaluronic dermal filler injections – once again, this is a personal choice made by some people. A dermal filler helps re-volumise and hydrate the face. Made from hyaluronic gel – a natural sugar already present in the human body. Hyaluronic can help restore fullness and volume in numerous facial areas. Visit here for more details.
• See the Beauty Booster Treatment
• Upgrade your Skincare Regime / Products – to suit your changing skin conditions. Visit the Solution Tool for further advice regarding which skincare products will best suit your individual skin concerns. 
• Skin Treatments….eg Skin Needling
• See ‘5 Of The Worst Things You Can do For Your Skin’
• Progesterone Cream helps a lot of women with Perimenopausal symptoms in general. I highly recommend Ona’s Natural Progesterone Cream
• To receive a discount on Ona’s natural progesterone cream use code : Vskin10
• Vitex – has been traditionally used in Western herbal medicine for menstrual cycle irregularities and to help relieve symptoms associated with PMS. It can also provide symptomatic relief of hormone-induced acne. Visit your local health food shop or nutritionist for more information.

 

Victoria Isherwood (Registered Nurse / Dermatology) ☺️

 

 

What Causes Wrinkles? …& what can we do to help

There are many factors that contribute to the lines and wrinkles that we developed over the years. Some contributors are out of are control, while others are from our own lifestyle circumstances and choices.

As we age our skin gets thinner, less elastic and drier. It also becomes less able to protect itself from damage.

When we are young, our skin springs back. HOWEVER -as we get older our skin looses collagen and it’s flexibility. Springing back becomes harder, resulting in permanent  (at rest) lines and wrinkles.

Types of Wrinkles

FINE SUPERFICAL LINES

These finer lines increase when our skin is dehydrated, sun damaged, or if your a smoker. They can also occur due to our sleep position.

DEEP WRINKLES

Every time our facial muscles move (when we speak or make facial expressions such as frowning) our skin moves too. This is called ‘dynamic movement’ – producing dynamic wrinkles. Overtime, dynamic wrinkles will turn into ‘static lines’. This means they are permanently etched in our skin.

In addition, the loss of volume (mainly fat cells) under our skin means there is less ‘support’. This is a natural part of aging and leads to increased wrinkling and sagging.

A number of avoidable lifestyle and environmental factors also contribute to the development of lines and wrinkles.

Smoking
Tobacco contains loads of toxins including;- carbon monoxide, nicotine, formaldehyde, mercury, lead and tar. These chemicals damage collagen and elastin within the skin. They also cause blood vessels to constrict, reducing blood flow, oxygen and nutrients to the skin. Skin is then less able to rejuvenate and repair itself. In addition to this, constantly squinting to avoid getting cigaret smoke in the eyes, and puckering the lips = lines around the eyes and mouth. See 5 of the worst things you can do for your skin.

The sun
Sun exposure is a major cause of wrinkles, especially for fair-skinned people.

Our sleep position
Sleep creases result from the way the head is positioned on the pillow and may become more visible after our skin starts losing its elasticity. Lying predominantly ‘face-down’ is typically the culprit. So trying to change sleep position can improve these sleep creases, or at least prevent them from becoming worse.

Dehydrated skin
As we age, it becomes harder for our skin to maintain its moisture levels. It also becomes increasingly common for our skins ‘lipid barrier’ to become impaired. This then leads to moisture loss / dehydration. The Skin also becomes more susceptible to bacteria and pollutants penetrating the impaired barrier.  Several factors can lead to dehydrated skin such as:-

What can help slow down the aging process

1) Protect your skin from the sun
– slip slop slap and include SPF in your day Cream

2) Don’t smoke
3) Choose skincare formulas rich in active anti-aging  ingredients eg retinol

3) Avoid dry dehydrated skin
Avoid long hot showers which draws moisture out of your skin. Avoid harsh cleansers. Change your skincare products to suit your aging skin, see multi-med therapy and  Active Hydration Serum

4) Smarten up your diet
Increase your fatty acid intake. Omega 3’s and Omega 6 help boost the skins barrier -which keeps moisture in and irritants out. Good sources include salmon, sardines, flaxseeds, walnuts, Sea buckthorn. Take Supplements if your diet is not up to scratch (Omega 3’s & Zinc is a good start). See Anti-Aging Superfoods.

5) Skin Treatments
– See Rolling back the years & LED
– Muscle relaxants (aka anti-wrinkle injections).

Anti-wrinkle injections work to prevent the formation of static wrinkles by stopping the signal between the nerve and muscle (temporarily causing the muscle to relax). The decreased movement in the muscle places less stress on the skin helping you maintain a fresh and youthful appearance. This treatment is most effective when used as a preventative measure. Anti-wrinkle injections are made from a purified protein.
Deep wrinkles can be treated with dermal fillers which replace the volume that has been lost under the skin.

Other
See 7 proven ways to nourish sun-damaged Skin.            See 5 of the WORST things you can do for your SKIN

Victoria Isherwood (Registered Nurse)