How to Layer Your Skin Products?

Skincare can be confusing. From the toners, the serums, the a.m. moisturiser, the p.m. moisturiser etc ….your skincare regime can quickly turn into a nightmare!

Order Matters, Here’s Why

You might have the most amazing skincare products in the world, however if you’re applying them in the wrong order, you will NOT be getting the full benefits.  In fact not only will incorrect application diminish the overall effectiveness of your routine, it can leave your skin dehydrated, irritated or with break-outs!

Studies have found that matching a good skin care regimen with a healthy lifestyle is the best way to slow the signs of aging.

Think Thin-to-Thick

So which order should product be applied? An easy rule of thumb is to cleanse and then simply apply products with the thinnest consistency to the thickest.

This generally insures that:-

1) The products with the most important ingredients penetrate into the skin efficiently (eg antioxidants & active ingredients in serums).

2) You will finish with the products that help lock everything  in.

Step 1: Makeup Remover

If you wear makeup or sunscreen during the day, then a double cleanse in the evening is a must (you can skip this step in the mornings). SO either use makeup wipes, micellar water OR another gentle makeup-removing cleanser.

Step 2: Cleanser (or exfoliation)

Once your makeup is off, it’s time to actually clean your skin. You can start here in the mornings. In the evenings, this step will also ensure that you haven’t left any makeup remover residue on your skin (where it could lead to irritations or breakouts).

Starting the day with a gentle cleanser (or cleansing mask) will ensure the serums and moisturisers (that are layered on afterwards) will penetrate properly. It will also allow for a smoother make-up application (during the day).

An exfoliation product may replace a cleanser in this step once or twice per week.

Step 3: A Modern Day Toner

Back in the day, toners were harsh alcohol-based liquids that often irritated the skin. However today’s toners are filled with gentle ingredients to help clear pores and add nutrients to the skin.

Step 4: Serums

Remembering THINK to THICK!

Serums are usually super-concentrated and nutrient-dense, to address specific concerns (such as general aging, pigmentation or dehydration). SO it’s important that the skins pores efficiently absorb serums first.

See here for a good example of a hydrating day serum. OR here for more information on Retinol serum (for night).

Step 5: Lock it in!

A Moisturiser cream ‘locks in’ all of the active ingredients and hydration that you’ve just applied. Preferably use a am cream in the morning and a pm cream at night. 

The best time to apply a moisturiser is while the skin is still slightly damp, so theres no need to wait until your serum is completely dry before applying a moisturising cream. 

Step 6: Optional add-ons 

Eye cream , foundation, additional sun cream 

Remember thin-to-thick!!

Fortunately Rodan + Fields has made all of the above super easy

Rodan + Fields skincare products are based on a ‘multi-med therapy’ philosophy. This means using the right ingredients, in the right formulations, in the right order. To see real changes in our skin, it is vital to use high quality ingredients in safe and effective amounts and formulations.

Rodan + Fields takes safety and efficacy very seriously. In order to achieve desired results (without adverse effects), each formulation has undergone months of rigorous clinical testing and has a clinical grade 99.9% purity. Did you know that other ‘cosmetic grade’ products are only approximately 70% pure (with no audits) and often contain bacteria.

With Rodan + Fields Multi-Med Therapy, great skin and the confidence and self-esteem that come with it, are within your reach.  To find out which product line is best for you please visit the Solution Tool …..& Write Your Own Prescription for Change.

Why Exfoliate?

One of the fastest and most effective ways to brighten up dull skin is to exfoliate — that is, to remove old skin cells, revealing newer skin underneath.

SO …. Out with the old; in with the new

Exfoliating helps with cell turnover, the natural shedding of dead cells that slows down as we age. If these cells accumulate, skin can feel rough and look dull. Exfoliation helps remove some of that debris, so skin is smoother and reflects light more evenly.

Some of the below extract taken from DermRF

There are two different ways to accomplish this instant New Year’s transformation: Mechanical exfoliators polish away dead cells using granules, such as sugar or salt crystals. Chemical exfoliators, which include glycolic acid, lactic acid and salicylic acid, dissolve the bond between old cells and the newer ones underneath.

So which exfoliation method is better? Rodan + Fields founders Dr. Katie Rodan and Dr. Kathy Fields recommend both. “We’re fans of both gentle chemical and mechanical exfoliation, with the key word being ‘gentle,” they explain in their book Write Your Skin a Prescription for Change. “In our experience, it takes the perfect combination of the two to dissolve the bonds between cells without irritating skin and to sweep away dead cells, leaving skin soft and smooth.”

The Doctors’ advice: “Don’t overdo it.” If you don’t exfoliate regularly and want to start, or if you’ve only used one kind of exfoliator and would like to add the chemical or mechanical product you’re missing, give your skin time to get used to it:

1. Start slow, and don’t overscrub. If your skin looks red or feels raw, take a break and give it a chance to recover.

2. Treat your face and body differently. The skin on elbows, knees and heels may respond well to daily exfoliation, while your face may prefer it every few days. And avoid the temptation to use a body scrub on your face; the exfoliating particles may be too aggressive. (If you’re looking for one scrub formulated for both face and body, try R+F Enhancements Micro-Dermabrasion Paste.).

3. For best results, moisturize after you exfoliate.

Why else do we love Enhancements Microdermabrasion Paste?? …because they’re eco-friendly (see here)

Looking for more great dermatological skin products? See here

Victoria Isherwood (Registered Nurse / Dermatology)

Protection – A skincare step NOT to miss!

In a world where people are spending thousands of dollars on skincare products and treatments (for anti-ageing and pigment correction), it’s ironic that the most simple, yet neglected step is sun protection.

We know that the sun is a major contributor to aging skin. It causes sun spots, wrinkles, dullness, hyper pigmentation, broken blood vessels, enlarged pores, thickened skin and more.

Pigmentation is usually the result of too much sun, creating freckles, age spots or larger discoloured skin patches. Research has shown that it is one of the biggest contributors to looking older – equal to wrinkles.

Fast facts

The vast majority of visible signs of ageing or hyperpigmentation are a result of the sun …and its damaging UV rays. In fact, up to 80% of premature ageing is thought to be attributed to the sun.

Australia experiences some of the highest levels of UV radiation in the world (due to our proximity to the equator and frequent blue skies). 

MUST-KNOW FACTS ABOUT SUMMER SUN PROTECTION

1. What’s the difference between UVA and UVB rays?

Ultraviolet A (UVA) rays emit the same amount of radiation from sunrise to sunset, 365 days a year. Ultraviolet B (UVB) rays are stronger in the summer, especially between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m.

2. Are UVA and UVB rays equally harmful to skin?

Yes, but they affect it in different ways. UVB rays are responsible for sunburn and skin redness. (Think “B” for “burning.”) They cause inflammation, surface dryness and excess dry skin buildup.

UVA rays are weaker than UVB rays but pass further into your skin. They stimulate excess pigment, resulting in dark marks, age spots and dullness. UVAs also break down collagen and elastin, causing lines, wrinkles and sagging. UVA rays can penetrate glass, which means they harm your skin even while indoors.

3. What does SPF stand for, and how does it work?

SPF is short for “Sun Protection Factor.” The higher the SPF, the more protection. But exactly how long a sunscreen protects you depends on your skin color and its tolerance to UVB rays.

To get a sense of how long you can stay in the sun, multiply your sunscreen’s SPF number by the amount of time it takes your skin to burn in the sun.

If your skin turns red in 10 minutes without sun protection, your math would look like this:

• SPF 15 x 10 minutes = 150 minutes (2 ½ hours) without getting burned

• SPF 30 x 10 minutes = 300 minutes (5 hours) without getting burned

…but there’s a little more to it than this. First, no sunscreen can block out 100% of the sun’s rays. Since you can’t rely on sunscreen for complete protection, be sure to cover up your body and wear a big hat and sunglasses.

4. What’s the difference between physical sunscreen and chemical sunscreen?

The two types of sunscreens protect skin in different ways and have different properties. Physical sunscreens, such as zinc oxide, reflect and scatter light and are gentle on skin — which is why Rodan + Fields UNBLEMISH and SOOTHE sunscreens are physical sunscreens. Chemical screens, such as avobenzone, absorb light and blend well with more ingredients. Rodan + Fields REVERSE, REDEFINE and ESSENTIALS sunscreens are chemical sunscreens.

Whether physical or chemical, all broad-spectrum sunscreens should be formulated to protect against damage from both UVA and UVB rays.

5. How much sunscreen do I need?

More than you probably think! Apply one tablespoon of sunscreen to your face and one ounce — the amount that would fill a shot glass — to your body for adequate sun protection.

6. How frequently should I reapply sunscreen?

One application of sunscreen won’t protect your skin for the entire day. You should reapply sunscreen every two hours — more frequently if you’ve been in the water. This is true even if you’re using a sunscreen with a high SPF.

See here for another great product which contains SPF

Victoria Isherwood (Registered Nurse / Skincare)

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The Link Between Chronic Inflammation & Our Skin

Inflammation is part of the body’s immune response. It is our body’s attempt at self-protection to remove harmful stimuli (such as bacteria) and begin the healing process. Inflammation can be beneficial in the short-term. For instance -let’s say we get a cut or a graze to our skin. Immediately, our immune cells step in to protect against pathogens and heal the wound. This is called acute inflammation. Your white blood cells step in to do their job and then go away.

However there’s another type of inflammation that sticks around way longer than it’s meant to. This is called Chronic inflammation and can cause harm to our bodies in many ways.

Chronic inflammation can be the root cause of common skin disorders such as acne, eczema, psoriasis & rosacea. It can also contribute to premature aging, some mood disorders, hormonal imbalances, certain autoimmune disorders and disease. 

Our skin is our body’s largest organ, and when inflammation is out of control, it can manifest in multiple skin problems.

Numerous things may fuel chronic inflammation. This includes inflammatory foods we eat, certain medications, environmental factors and stress.  This then leads to systemic inflammation affecting the entire body. See gut blog for more information.

Triggers of inflammation

• Stress
• Viruses, bacteria, yeasts or parasites
• Food allergies
• Long term use of certain medications
• Toxins such as mercury and pesticides
• Lack of exercise
• Mold
• Lack of sleep
• Environment allergies
• Inflammatory foods

What FOODS cause inflammation and should be Limited?

• Refined Sugar
• Too much Omega-6 fatty acids – as mentioned above.
• High-fructose corn syrup – not only increases inflammation but can also inhibit the anti-inflammatory effect of omega-3 fatty acids.
• Processed meat
• Gluten
• Too much caffeine
• Dairy (ie non-fermented dairy)
• Processed foods, especially those that are high in high-fructose-corn-syrup, sugar and sodium.
• Excessive alcohol consumption
• See more on inflammation/ gut health here

Omega-3 Vs Omega-6 Fatty Acids

Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids are essential fatty acids that the body needs for normal growth and development. However these two fatty acids compete for absorption. Our bodies need a healthy balance of omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids. It is Omega-3’s that help reduce inflammation in our bodies. So …an excess consumption of omega-6s (and not enough Omega-3) can trigger inflammation.

Omega-6 fats are derived from linoleic acid and are found in certain oils like peanut, corn, sesame, sunflower, soy, and safflower. These oils need to be limited in our diets. 

A recent study showed a significant reduction in psoriasis flare ups (ie reduced area of rash, and improved thickness and redness of psoriasis) – after supplementing with a high quality omega-3 fish oil supplement (containing EPA & DHA). The study authors suggested doses of 0.45 to 13.5 grams of EPA and up to 9 grams of DHA daily.

Foods which help reduce inflammation 

• Foods rich in omega-3 fatty acids – such as extra virgin olive oil, oily wild caught fish such as salmon, sardines, t rout, anchovies and mackerel. Flaxseeds, sea buckthorn walnuts. A good quality Omega-3 supplement can also help ease inflammatory skin issues. 
• Green leafy vegetables, such as spinach and kale. Also other colourful fruit and vegetables (the deeper or brighter the colour the richer it is in nutrients and antioxidants).
• Fruit esp berries – berries (such as blueberries, strawberries, raspberries etc) contain antioxidants called anthocyanins which have anti-inflammatory properties.
• Note:- Grass fed meat is better than grain fed meat.
• Foods high in antioxidants help reduce damage caused by inflammation.
• Probiotic rich foods (or supplements).
• Turmeric root & ginger
• See more anti inflammatory super foods here.

Victoria Isherwood (Registered Nurse)

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Victoria has been nursing for 20 years. She has a double degree in Nursing and Health Science, as well as a Post Graduate in Midwifery. In addition, she has also undertaken comprehensive and extensive training in dermatology and the cosmetic field. Having an eye for detail, Victoria now works exclusively in skincare aesthetics as a Cosmetic Nurse.

Working in the Cosmetic/ Dermatology field, Victoria has seen a lot of fads come and go. This Blog aims to help you eliminate the confusion of an over abundance of Skin advice and products on the market today.  The objective  is to help you filter through the gimmicky products and advice, to get to the good material. All products shown are clinical grade, cruelty free, and have undertaken rigorous testing.

Blog topics will help educate and shed light on various skin (& related health) concerns. It is important to take a wholistic approach when it comes to skin health. Blog topics will cover both conventional and functional medicine. This includes various treatment options, clinical grade products, natural products, hormones, gut health, cosmetic injectables, natural remedies and more.

Please read on to find out more

For in clinic skin treatments / injectables with Victoria at Laser Clinics Australia please visit here OR contact:-

Warriewood (Tuesdays) Ph: 02 83192078

Brookvale (Thursdays) Ph: 80148911

For dermatological clinically proven skincare products visit here

😊 Victoria Isherwood

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Will Facial Exercises Prevent Wrinkles – and give your skin a lift??

Fiction: – The more you make facial movements, the deeper your lines become!

Every time your facial muscles move (when you speak, make facial expressions etc) your skin moves too. This is called ‘dynamic movement’ and produces dynamic wrinkles. Overtime, dynamic wrinkles will turn into ‘static lines’. Meaning  ….they are permanently etched in our skin.

Years back we were recommended facial yoga “poses” involve lifting eyebrows, puckering  lips, and scrunching up our face in various other ways. All these moves cause creasing and crinkling ….aka ‘dynamic wrinkles’.
SO ….as you can see, exercising your facial muscles will actually increase your chance of wrinkles.

Anti-wrinkle injections work to prevent the formation of static wrinkles by stopping the signal between the nerve and muscle. The decreased movement in the muscle places less stress on the skin helping you maintain a fresh and youthful appearance. This treatment is most effective when used as a preventative measure.
Anti-wrinkle injections are made from a purified protein that temporarily causes facial muscles to relax, instantly softening lines and wrinkles and reducing the severity of visible wrinkles.

For additional reading visit-

Why Facial Exercise Is Bad For Skin

https://www.self.com/story/wrinkles-facial-exercises